Paris Fashion Week: Rick Owens

What could be seen of this collection was praised. So expect to see sheepskin bags and duvet coats on the high street

At least at first there was a view of the Eiffel Tower to be had from my seat at the venue for this drearily late show. So, with a choice of the moley, spot-mottled neck directly in front of me, or the bit of the tower that I could just discern beyond it, I mooned Tour-wards.

The crush grew denser. The aisle that I was depending on as a sightline to the catwalk filled. A tartan trouser-wearing camera fiddler blocked even that tower view. Fifteen minutes later, he commented to a no less entrancing friend: “Oh, I think that’s the Eiffel Tower!”

The show started. There was a definitely visible sheepskin bag. Or possibly fur. The models had Catwoman eye make-up and hair that looked like they’d stuck their heads out of a car window en route to the show. A coat looked like a duvet. The music started with Queen’s You Take My Breath Away and descended into loud (even louder than Pugh’s) 4am techno, and I felt sorry for the old lady in shades who winced in distress at every banging beat.

Afterwards, people said that the collection was very strong.

Owens, though not a marquee name, is hugely influential on the British high street — his aesthetic resonates everywhere from All Saints to Miss Selfridge. Ah well.

Luke Leitch, The Times 08-03-2010